Cheers with an Italian Accent

 To understand the essence of Bevacqua’s Reservoir Tavern, you can go to their website, where a charming old world photo shows founder Nicola Bevacqua  beaming beside his flavorful Italian dishes.

Or you could just go to the Res, as it is affectionately known, and breathe in the fragrances of garlic, onions, and tomato, and feel, with a sigh of contentment, that you have arrived home.

If  you’ve never been to the Res but have heard of its reputation-- and driven past on a Friday night to witness its crammed-to-the-borders parking lot--you probably know it’s a pizzeria/restaurant whose reputation precedes itself.

Since 1936, four generations of Bevacquas, starting in 1936 with Grandpa Nicola, have made this their place of business--as well as a family-style restaurant that welcomes friends and family out on weekend nights. Or maybe they're celebrating  football and baseball trophies won, and anything else you can imagine. Astronauts and actors have frequented the place—you might half expect to find Sam Malone behind the bar and Diane waiting tables.

But mostly the crowd at the Res is made up of local families, many of whom grew up in the Parsippany/Boonton/Mountain Lakes triangle which makes up the core of its constituency. Ask someone who lives 15 minutes away in Morristown or Randolph, and they may never have eaten here.

But most likely, if they try it one time, they’ll be back. In fact, there are some fans who stop in when visiting from California and take a pizza back with them to remember their Jersey roots.

Internet chatter on the Res is divided, with some singing its praises and others scoffing that it can’t live up to its 75 year reputation. Whatever. All pizza is personal and there are those who crave the bubbly, homemade crust in which the Res specializes and others who demand that their pizza be specially prepared in that thin- as- a-wafer fashion that’s featured in many New York pizzerias.

In fact, Nick III, the third generation pizza-man and business manager, suspects that the source of his grandfather’s pizza-making style actually has its roots in Paterson where the old gentleman started out learning his craft by working in some Paterson establishments.

Seventy five years ago he bought what was a house at the intersection of Parsippany Boulevard and Route 202. That’s where Bevacqua’s has remained with some minor modifications over the years.

At the moment, it’s looking very 60s/70s rec room with wood-paneled walls, linoleum floors and gray Formica tabletops. An 18 barstool expanse of bar is a popular meeting spot at both lunch and dinner with patrons engaging in conversation with the staff as well as customers. There are no plans to update the place since “the customers resist; they don’t like change’” says Nick.

Nick III’s father, Nicola, still works a few days a week, as does his mother, Maryanne. She’s likely to greet you when you walk in the door with a soft-spoken friendliness that makes newcomers relax instantly. Nick III’s son, Nick IV, also puts in time at the restaurant

And if pizza’s not what you crave, although that’s “sacrilege” according to their website, there’s a 12 page menu that will have you drooling from the jumbo Shrimp Calabrese to the Chicken Martino with Romano cheese, roasted peppers, mozzarella cheese and asparagus.

The menu reflects the family’s roots which run deep through Calabria and Sicily. Even the simplest Pasta e fagioli soup is noteworthy with its tomato base and bits of sweet sausage floating amidst the pasta and beans. Lunch for two can be had for around $30 and there’s a note on the menu promising to “adjust” prices as the market allows.

If you’re wondering where the 27 table place got its name, the real reservoir is the Jersey City Waterworks property in Boonton, where 60s-era kids from this part of Morris County used to congregate for some not quite sanctioned after school fun. The reservoir is still there, but the trees have grown tall to hide it from the traffic. I remember. I was one of those kids.

Bevacqua’s Reservoir Tavern 92 Parsippany Boulevard, PO Box 185, Boonton, NJ 07005. Hours Tuesday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday. www.therestavern.com. Phone 973-334-0421; takeout orders 973-334-5708. Major credit cards accepted