Marakesh: Arabian Nights in Parsippany

It’s hard to believe that an exotic slice of Morocco, that colorful North African country famous for its cuisine, unique décor and music, sits neatly inside a pedestrian strip shopping center on Route 46 East in Parsippany.

Doubters will attest, however, that the minute they set foot in , the 15 year-old-restaurant created by Abdelfettah El Akkari, any thoughts of  Jersey will be whisked away as swiftly as though they’d flown on Aladdin’s carpet.

It helps also that the 90-person dining room is graced with curtains made of Moroccan fabric, and the comfortable banquettes are covered in rich burgundy velour with flecks of gold. Hand-hammered copper tables dot the room, providing gathering spaces for friends and family.

Of course, it doesn’t hurt that on weekends belly dancers hit the floor two times throughout the evening, giving the restaurant a party air. Patrons are encouraged to join the bejeweled dancers or simply sit back among the comfortable cushions and watch the floor show. Twinkling lights sparkle overhead.

Although it is strictly a BYO establishment, even without the alcohol, it’s easy to understand how quickly one can fall under the spell of this place. Waiters fill your cup with hot mint tea, available for repeat refills.

Many of those who come here have made the restaurant a “destination” for festive events such as special birthdays and “date nights.'' For others, it's just a chance  to break from the routine, explained El Akkari, who works both the front of the house and the kitchen, depending upon what’s needed. “I love this business and I don’t mind working eight, 10 or 20 hours. When I cook, I enjoy it; it’s not to just make money,” he explains.

Customers from all over New Jersey and New York come to sample the many dishes on the menu. They include such specialties as marinated kebabs, various tagines and the fixed price “Royal Feast” ($29 per person) or Sultan’s Table ($36), multiple courses served family style. A vegetarian mixed grill is another popular option. Lemons, olives and the hand-mixed Ras El Hanout (a mix of cardamom, ginger, turmeric and coriander, among other seasonings) are important at each meal.

High-priced saffron and cinnamon perfume many dishes and spiciness is added with Tunisian red pepper harissa sauce if desired. Salad, couscous and hummus with pita bread round out the dinner.

For those timid diners who fear the new and unusual, an easy and affordable way to experience Marakesh is to try it for lunch at fixed prices of $9.95 or $13.95. Meals include fragrant saffron rice, vegetables and a complete salad bar. Popular dishes include Shawarma Marakesh, the marinated, shaved and grilled beef dish or the breast of chicken kabob marinated in garlic, Ras el Hanout and olive oil. For $13.95 there is  hand-made and stuffed Mergez lamb and beef sausages; grilled Moroccan boneless chicken marinated in white honey and stone ground mustard or grilled baby lamb chops, among other selections.

El Akkari didn’t just land in New Jersey and decide to open a Moroccan restaurant, however. The tall, soft-spoken father of two spent 12 years working for Mount Fuji restaurant in Mahwah. During that time, he learned all aspects of the restaurant business from the kitchen to the supply closets and the complex laws involving food safety in the United States.

He also pursued a food service degree in Rockland County, N.Y. And he kept an eye on the American palate and temperament, which was becoming more accustomed to dishes from unfamiliar places. By the mid-'90s, Americans were conversant with sushi, couscous and fajitas as well as their beloved burgers and pasta.

With family in Morocco, El Akkari has plenty of opportunity to travel back and forth, refreshing the space with collectible items that reflect Morocco’s culture. He didn’t start the restaurant to build it for a family dynasty, however. While his wife worked in the restaurant business, she no longer does. His 16-year-old daughter has expressed some interest in working with him, greeting customers and learning the fine art of being a gracious hostess. Even so, he’s not counting on her following in his path

“She’s young, she may change her mind. I do this because I love it; I enjoy people and I enjoy seeing them have a good time.”

321 Route 46 East Parsippany
973-808-0062
www.marakesh.com
Monday to Thursday, noon to 3 p.m.; 5 to 10:30 p.m.
Friday, noon to 3 p.m.; 5 p.m. to midnight
Saturday, 5 p.m. to midnight
Sunday, 4 to 10 p.m.