Sushi-Kuu Grill: Chinese Couple Brings Japanese Cuisine to Lake Hiawatha

There was a time when good sushi could only be found in major metropolitan areas like New York City and Los Angeles. But that was 25 years ago and now Japanese restaurants, while not as ubiquitous as pizzerias, are plentiful in the suburbs. New Jersey is no exception.

Japanese food has many followers in the U. S. today. There are fans who love the drama of hibachi cooking; others crave the crispness and familiarity of tempura fried foods. Still others are lured in by the steaming bowls of udon noodles. Then, there are those purists who love sushi for its clarity of flavor. For those who crave fresh fish, nothing tastes as satisfying

Sushi-Kuu is a Japanese grill and restaurant at 48 North Beverwyck Road in Lake Hiawatha where sushi chef and owner Kent Xie has been creating and cooking for a devoted group of followers for the last seven years. It’s a charming place with lanterns beckoning from outside and an attentive manager, Tina Chen, who also happens to be his wife, greeting customers the minute they walk through the door. It has a distinctive Japanese feel although the owners are Chinese.

Xie likes to describe his restaurant as “Asian-fusion,” a rapidly growing restaurant category which picks from signature flavors and seasonings of various cuisines.  Miso soup is a stalwart in most Japanese restaurants, but here there are many more tasty choices such as mushroom-fried onion soup, Thai-style Tom Yum soup and Chinese-style hot and sour soup. They provide a comfortable gateway for those trying sushi for the first time.

Sushi-Kuu has a fresh and youthful feel with its apple green-painted walls lightening the mood against a backdrop of some 15 tables. A sushi bar accommodates a few diners with a view of chefs at work. The atmosphere is open and friendly with the young couples’ children, seven-year-old Queenly  and 5-year-old Jerry, coming in after school for a late lunch and some homework time. Regular diner Carmine Wilde of Whippany showed up the other day and was treated like a well-known friend.

“This is the real deal,” she said as she waited for her order of Hamachi Kama (baked yellowtail neck) to be prepared. “Everything is very fresh and interesting and they don’t charge too much,” she said, pointing out that her simply prepared meal was listed for $9 on the menu.

On the other hand, a massive special sushi boat platter was prepared for a group of four at a cost of $55. It included 60 pieces of various types of nigiri (sushi) made with tuna, salmon, crabstick (pressed crab) and more; various rolls were prepared with eel, salmon and California-style with avocado, which is a favorite for Americans.

Xie  learned to cook while working in New York for a restaurant in Chelsea and in upstate New York for a chef named “Yoshi.” He doesn’t remember the chef’s last name but he was a dedicated student who learned much about Japanese food from the older gentleman. Xie also worked in Boston at a sake restaurant and, with those experiences, determined that the precise and exacting style of Japanese food preparation was what he wanted to do. His wife, Tina, who is also Chinese, puts it more simply. “Chinese people like to learn to do different things.” And if they see a niche where they can make an entry, all the better.

Xie and Chen find Lake Hiawatha living more conducive to raising a family and running a business simultaneously than their previous experience on Coney Island.  Deliveries come in from True World Foods which has numerous locations around the world as well as one in New Jersey.

This chef enjoys what he is doing. There are many well-known Asian specialties on the large menu but his “omekase creations” (chef’choice) are among those he most enjoys. There is Yellowtail Jalapeno with garlic and yuzu sauce or Lobster Martini, steamed lobster with mustard sauce and black tobiko (caviar).  A Tuna Pizza comes with onion, tomato and the chef’s “special sauce.”  Special rolls, which are increasingly popular at Japanese restaurants, have playful names like Black Dragon, Yummy Roll and Pink Lady Roll. Rolls are often coated with sesame seeds or battered and fried for unexpected taste contrasts.

The fusion part of the menu takes many forms, from the use of Latino favorites like jalapeno and the liberal use of mango as a sweetener. American favorites like peanuts, cucumbers and cream cheese can be found in many dishes. A meal at Sushi-Kuu is a global adventure.

Sushi-Kuu Grill and Japanese Restaurant 48 North Beverwyck Road, Lake Hiawatha 973-402-6888. www.sushikuunj.com  Lunch, Monday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday Noon to 3 p.m.  Dinner, Monday to Thursday 4:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. Major credit cards accepted.