Verde: Albanian Brothers, Italian Restaurant

As we pulled into the parking lot  of Verde Ristorante on Tabor Road, it was obvious that this BYOB place, decorated with brightly shining white and green lights, was a destination for those familiar with it.

Once inside, I was greeted swiftly, seated quickly and settled in to wait for my dining partner to show up. Around the softly-lit room were tables of two and four murmuring happily over substantial portions of Italian food. Waiters and servers moved about swiftly. They were serious about the business of dining but also careful to be courteous. Frank Sinatra played on a loop overhead – a little Tony Bennett would have been welcome also.

A sign outside the restaurant declares “Fine Italian Cuisine” but in truth, it is more reflective of the whole Mediterranean area, which also includes Albania. Some popular dishes are bronzino, chicken pecan, filet mignon and veal and pork chops.

This is a family venture started by the Kaba family, three Albanian brothers whose parents also worked in the restaurant business, most recently at Casa Bianca in Oak Ridge; it has since been sold. Apparently the apples didn’t fall far from the tree as the sons are serious and skillful about their work. In fact, the waiter who first greeted me was Mendim, a philosophy major in college who couldn’t resist the lure of the restaurant business.

Thirty-one-year-old Mendim’s brothers, Verdi (27 and the inspiration for the restaurant name) and Veb, 25, all work the floor for lunch and dinner service. It keeps them close to the customers who they have grown to know in their three years in business here. Graduates of Wayne Hills High School, two of the brothers went to college but all three found themselves drawn back to what they were raised in.

“We grew up in it,” explained Mendim. “I tried working for someone else but it didn’t work.”

The former college philosophy major explained “when it’s in your blood, it’s the only thing we know how to do.” The brothers learned of the Mount Tabor location three years ago when the former Chez Denis restaurant was put up for sale. Before that it had been a diner and an ice cream shop.

Shortly after my my dining partner and I were seated, a waiter appeared, rattled off several enticing-sounding specials and then left us to contemplate the substantial menu which features antipasti, salads, chicken, pasta, veal and seafood --so many choices that it took us some time to decide.

But since the specials sounded so good, we went for them with an appetizer of layered beets with goat cheese that was concocted like a napoleon and a panko-crusted crab cake that was loaded with crab meat. With a drizzled vinegar dressing, the beets were nothing short of excellent, although they could have benefitted from 10 minutes resting outside the refrigerator. The fridge, unfortunately, put a chill on their flavor and we’ve had enough of feeling cold.

While waiting to settle our bill (entrees are about $13 to $25), we found out from some regular customers that the brothers can be counted on to offer the same type of quality cuisine, whether for dinner or a baby shower. For Valentine’s Day on Monday, seatings are offered at 6 p.m., 7 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.

“The customers in this area just get it, what we’re trying to do,” explained Mendim. “They know food and appreciate it.”

Business has been “just great” despite a two day closing last week due to snow. Weekends are busiest and reservations are recommended.

Verde Ristorante is open Tuesday through Friday from 11:45 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch and 4 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. for dinner; Saturday is 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday is 2 p.m. to 9 p.m. Valet parking on weekends. Major credit cards are accepted. BYOB. Handicapped accessible. www.verderistorante.com. Telephone 973-539-8100; FAX 973-539-8188.